Cephalopods & Lent

By Ruth Levy

Lent is just around the corner and a great category to feature is Cephalopods:  Squid, Octopus and Cuttlefish.  These seafood items are consumed across many different cultures and certainly represent an opportunity for both the buyer and the seller.  In their frozen cleaned form, squid, octopus and cuttlefish are truly one of the best values in the seafood category as there is no waste, everything can be cooked.

How and where are these items used?  Squid or calamari is used in just about every type of restaurant whether it is fried, added to a seafood stew or poached and used in salad.  Cuttlefish is typically found more in Asian and Mediterranean cuisines stewed, grilled or fried.  Octopus has come into its own and can be found on your local Mexican, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese & Australian Restaurant menu just to name a few.  The dishes can range from fried, sautéed, salad, barbecued to stewed.  The applications are quite limitless for this seafood category of cephalopods.

The value for cephalopods lies not only in the versatile applications but also in the low cost of the product.  Cleaned squid, octopus and cuttlefish are all 100% usable and cost a reasonable amount compared to other proteins.  This is one category where the three mantras of value, versatility and variety all apply.

So, when thinking about what to eat or to feature during Lent, don’t forget Cephalopods:  Squid, Octopus and Cuttlefish.  There are close to seven weeks to focus on seafood and cephalopods should be on the top of the list.

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Cephalopods are in big demand during the Christmas season.  The three major types that are purchased and consumed are:  Pulpo/Octopus, Sepia/Cuttlefish & Calamari/Squid.

Many people do not understand the difference between these three and tend to lump them all together.  However each type is a distinct animal.  Cooking methods can be quite similar but there are distinctive characteristics to each.

Pulpo or Octopus: 

Sold as large cleaned (each individual octopus weighs one to several pounds) or baby cleaned (several octopi per one pound).  These are typically boiled for salad or stewed in tomato sauce and transcend several cuisines:  South American, Mediterranean and Asian etc.  The cooked meat is chewy but flavorful. The tentacles are quite long and are cut into pieces while the head meat is sliced.

Sepia or Cuttlefish: 

This cephalopod is not as well known in the USA as its cousins the squid or octopus.  However, in Europe and Asia, this is the prized cephalopod for flavor and consistency.  The animal is a cross between both the squid and octopus in appearance.  The thick meat cooks up snow white and is tender with a subtle flavor.  It is delicious when grilled or stewed but is just as tasty fried or boiled. The tentacles are shorter and the body (or tube) is where the thick slices come from.  Once again the forms sold in the marketplace are either:   large cleaned, large uncleaned or baby cleaned.

Calamari or Squid:    

Most everyone knows this cephalopod.  The tube and tentacles are fried or the tube is stuffed.  Product is sized by tube length and there are many tubes or tubes & tentacles per pound. 

Happy Holidays!  May cephalopods be included on your holiday menu!

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Imported Loligo Squid

There are several significant Loligo squid species imported into the US.  The two most significant are: Loligo chinensis (from China) and Loligo vulgaris (from India).  The one that offers the most value to the US consumer and is packed similar to US domestic squid is the Loligo chinensis squid from China.

Loligo chinensis is caught in the South China Sea and is typically brought to shore fresh.  There are Taiwan boats that freeze at sea, but the majority of the squid caught in the South China Sea is processed from fresh or first land frozen and then processed later.  Loligo chinensis is treated with a tenderizing agent during the cleaning process.  Very few US Squid importers list the tenderizing agent as an ingredient on their cleaned squid package.  BOSN calamari is one Chinese squid brand that has all the proper ingredients listed and is true net weight.

Loligo Chinensisafter processing is white, tender and neutral in flavor.  The US market prefers a tender squid with neutral flavor and this product meets those criteria. It is also packed in the recognizable format of tray and bag and is very competitively priced.   The squid is fully cleaned and tentacles are separated from tubes. The squid is sized by its tube length which mirrors the domestic loligo.

Loligo vulgarisis a loligo squid that comes to the US market primarily from India.  It is whole cleaned which means the tentacles are still connected to the tubes, but the tubes have been skinned and eviscerated.  The pack is typically in a block, not in a tray and bag, like the US or Chinese cleaned squid.  It is block frozen and wrapped in plastic.  Sizing is also typically tube count per kilo, not length of squid tube.

Loligo vulgaris is a very sought after specie around the world.  It is meaty, moderately tender; light colored and has a more pronounced flavor than the Loligo chinensis.  It is also chemically tenderized and the tenderizing ingredients are not usually declared on the package.

Regarding price, Chinese and Indian squid are similarly priced in the market.  The familiarity of the Chinese package versus the more obscure ct/ kg of the Indian squid and unruly block/bag means the Indian calamari is less likely to be found in retail.  Both Indian and Chinese squid packers are known to pack less than net weight, so once again it is critical to understand what one is purchasing.

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Loligo Squid

Loligo Squid is a calamari specie that is prized around the world for its flavor and consistency.  There are many different types of loligo that come from different countries.  Known as long fin squid, this specie has a transparent (plastic-like) quill for its backbone.  The US has two commercial harvested species of loligo calamari:  Loligo pealei and Loligo opalescens. 

Loligo pealei, also known as Boston squid, is commercially harvested on the East Coast from New Jersey to Maine. Prized as one of the most flavorful and naturally tender of the loliginidae, it commands a premium in the whole and cleaned calamari marketplace.  Product used to be harvested and cleaned in the USA.  Now, product is harvested in the USA, land or sea frozen, and oftentimes sent to China for processing.  Whole frozen Loligo pealei is exported to Europe or Asia.

Loligo Opalesens is known in the marketplace as California Calamari.  This specie of loligo is smaller than the pealei and although quite flavorful, it is considered tougher or chewier.  There is big retail (supermarket) demand for whole frozen of this specie packed in 3lb. window boxes.  Once again if there is good catching, product is harvested in the USA, land or sea frozen, and oftentimes sent to China for cleaning.  An El Niño or La Niña in the Pacific impacts catching quite dramatically.

Boston squid (pealei) is the most expensive of all the cleaned calamari in the US market.  It is not as abundant in the market as the imported loligo species (vulgaris, chinensis) but it is the premium standard for taste and tenderness.  The cleaned forms for these loligo species include:  Tubes and Tentacles, Tubes Only, Rings Only and Rings & Tentacles.  The size references the tube length of the cleaned squid body, 5/8 means each tube length is approximately 5-8 inches long.  8/12 means each tube length is approximately 8-12 inches long and so forth.  The tentacles are typically packed in the natural proportion that occurs….about 35%.

In my next blog I will review the imported species of Loligo squid and discuss how they compare to the domestic Loligo pealei.

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Cephalopods are an amazing seafood category.  Part of the mollusk family, these animals form a category unto themselves.  The three main types of Cephalopods are:  Squid, Octopus and Cuttlefish also known as Calamari, Pulpo and Sepia.  There are a wide variety of products available in the market from many different countries of origin.  All cephalopods are wild caught.  However, the most amazing cephalopod story occurs with Squid.

Squid is a cephalopod that in less than 20 years has become a mainstream seafood item.  Originally an ethnic specialty, Squid was introduced to mainstream USA in the mid 1980s in its cleaned form as “Cleaned Calamari.”  Now you find Calamari, (bypassing the common name of squid) featured on most restaurant menus and is a consumer favorite despite being “SQUID” or bait.  It has transcended from squid to Calamari and the fact that Calamari is squid has become a distant memory for most consumers.  Calamari is sold primarily in cleaned form:  Tubes and Tentacles, Tubes Only, Rings and Tentacles, Rings Only or even as Steaks.  Cleaned Calamari is 100% useable, with no waste.  Cooking applications range from fried and grilled, to stuffed and sautéed.  Price point, cooking ease and the U.S. love of fried food makes calamari a natural winner.

There are many different types of squid with their own particular characteristics that we will explore in future discussions.  However, regardless of the type, Calamari or Squid is one of the best seafood values out there!

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