Working Together to Drive Consumption

16.5 Pounds per capita represents all the seafood consumed in the US. Seafood falls above turkey (13.4) but below pork (47.8), chicken (59.2), and beef (62.9). I have been working in this industry for 26 years and in that time we have only been able to increase consumption by 3.2 pounds. During that same time frame, Chicken has increased by 30 pounds. Why the disparity?

Have we not spent the past quarter century working collectively to increase the consumption of seafood? To be honest, we have not. Yes there has been work done to increase consumer awareness about the benefits of eating seafood, to educate them on just how easy the products are to prepare, to develop consumer confidence. But most, if not all, of this work has been done by individual operators/stakeholders and at times the point of the education/awareness has been to promote one source of product at the expense of another. This latter kind of awareness building ultimately benefits neither party. For as the barbs fly back and forth, promoting one source over another creates confusion in the customers mind regarding which product is indeed better. The last thing we need in this industry is a customer who is not completely clear on why they should be eating seafood.

It really is time for us to find a way to come together as an industry and promote Seafood, in all its various forms. This requires both the industry to come together and coalesce around a marketing campaign that supports the various members of the seafood community in the US market as well as the development of a funding mechanism that provides the resources needed to fully support this effort. In conjunction with this idea, we need to redefine how government monies are used to support the industry. The expenses that are currently devoted to promoting one sub segment of the industry would be better served promoting the entire industry.

Let’s start the campaign with an internal goal of 20 pounds in 2020. Working together we could get there - working apart there is little chance of that lofty goal becoming reality.

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What does this mean for our industry? Well, first and foremost, it hurts an already financially strapped domestic fishing industry that counts on revenues generated from this desired seafood item. Seafood importers will now look more intensely at Grouper supplies from both South and Central America. This will be passed on to wholesalers, retailers, restaurants, etc. in the form of much higher than normal prices to the end users, who just want to enjoy a nice piece of Grouper fillet every once in awhile.

In the past, high Grouper prices have led to many other firm, flaky, white meat species being passed off as Grouper fillets to restaurants, retailers, fish markets, and eventually, the consumer. The USDC has for the last few years cracked down on the mislabeling of these “Grouper-like” species and many unscrupulous practitioners have been caught, fined, and had their dealer licenses revoked. Major broad line, retail and warehouse club chains have also either removed Grouper from their seafood offerings or asked for proof of the Grouper’s authenticity. This helps every seafood purveyor that does things “by the book” and it allows the consumer to enjoy real Grouper, not a cheaper tasting and inferior quality substitute.

Traditionally, high Grouper prices have also helped to create legitimate markets and subsequent demand for other firm, flaky fillets that can stand on their own merit. Items such as Swai, Ponga, Corvina, and Kingclip are being imported and offered now with more frequency. They have also become widely accepted by many seafood purveyors and their customers are asking for it by name. Having alternatives when traditional species are not available creates value and opportunity in our industry. The next time that Grouper is not available, try one of these new items. You will find that you and your customers will come back for more.

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Oman Lobster Tails

by Robert Landy

In the USA, what we commonly refer to as Oman Lobster Tails are actually processed in the United Arab Emirates ( U.A.E. ).

These lobsters are caught in FAO area # 51 - Arabian Sea. The countries that are in this fishing area are Oman, Yemen, Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar, India, etc .

Species & Catching method

The primary lobster Species caught is the Panulirus Homarus. It is a small lobster; average body length is 20-25cm.  The majority of the lobster tails fall within the 2oz to 5oz sizes.

The lobsters are caught by netting, diving and/or traps depending on the country/region.  In Oman & Somalia they are caught by nets and diving.  In Yemen they also use traps. In India it’s mostly diving with some use of traps and nets in Mumbai.

Processing

The processing plants receive primarily frozen whole lobster or tails. They defrost the lobster, then clean and separate the lobster tails by quality. The lobster tails are then dipped into a Meta- Bisulphate solution.  They limit the amount of this chemical on the finished product to 100 parts per million. The lobster tails are then individually wrapped, then frozen in a blast freezer on metal trays. After frozen, they are graded by size + - 1/2oz tolerance. For instance, a 5oz tail will be 4.5oz to 5.5oz.  They are then packed in 10lb boxes, 4 boxes per master case.

Seasonality

The lobster season is divided into 2 parts:

The first season usually starts in September and ends in December. The second season resumes in Mid Feb and ends in May. During the first season, sizes are mainly in the 3-7oz range and during the second season, the sizes are predominantly in the 1-3oz range.

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The Best Shrimp…

What is the best shrimp to eat????? As the shrimp buyer here I often get asked this question. The answer is actually interesting and it varies depending upon the individual tastes of the consumer.  When people order steak in a restaurant they are very clear when it comes to what they prefer; the Ribeye which is a fattier, richer, more flavorful piece of meat with good marbling throughout or a Filet Mignon which is a center cut, leaner piece of meat.  When it comes to shrimp though, the consumer is much less clear cut in what “type” of shrimp they like or even know about.

Shrimp can be different in looks and tastes simply by method, i.e. farmed or wild. Shrimp can also be vastly different in looks, tastes and cooking time by species: Penaeus Vannamei (whites), Penaeus Subtilis (brown), Penaeus Monodon (tigers) or Machrobrachium Rosenbergii (freshwater). In the shrimp world, we use the Latin or scientific names when purchasing shrimp so that all of the sellers and buyers worldwide understand exactly the species that they are buying. This is a cute footnote to all parents who are struggling with their teenagers taking Latin in schools. The kids will say, “when in real life would we EVER use this?” you can then shoot back with the fact that the international seafood community uses Latin in buying and selling.

The Penaeus Vannamei or white shrimp are typically sold in many forms and can be from Mexico, Ecuador, Panama, Indonesia, Vietnam, India and other areas of Southeast Asia and South America. They can be wild or farmed and are also caught in the Gulf of Mexico. The US domestic shrimp industry thrives with white shrimp harvested from the Gulf of Mexico in Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas and Alabama. Typically, farmed raised shrimp have a very mild flavor and have a nice uniformity so that all of the shrimps in one size look the same in shape. The farmed whites can be softer in feel in the mouth vs. a wild white. The South American farmed whites are typically firmer than the Asian farmed whites.

Wild caughtwhites can vary greatly in flavor depending upon where they are caught. The Mexican whites are a very “meaty” shrimp with a good crunch and a sweet flavor. The Domestic Gulf whites can be a bit softer in the mouth and can have a “shrimpier” flavor, but are also sweet.

The Penaeus Subtilisor Browns are a “strong” flavored shrimp which can have a bit of astringency in the flavor profile due to their higher iodine content. Many different regions of the country prefer these shrimp, especially in the South and Southwest, and in Maryland and the Carolinas.  The taste of these wild caughtbrowns is VERY “shrimpy”; which, in other markets can be objectionable.

The Penaeus Monodon or black tiger shrimp  can be farmed or wild caught.  However, in the US, black tigers are generally farm raised from India, Vietnam, Bangladesh or Indonesia. These shrimp can be a bit saltier and firmer than a white, but when cooked, have a beautiful bright orange color.  They have a nice crunch but if overcooked, can become tough especially since they have a shorter cooking time than white shrimp.

The Machrobrachium Rosenbergii are farmed freshwater shrimp.  These are typically prepared grilled, sautéed or baked and should never be boiled.  They have a very different taste and texture to the whites, browns or black tigers. They are plain in flavor with a texture and consistency that is closer to lobster than to shrimp. These are very firm and mild and they pick up marinades very well. Since they can grow quite large their cooked presentation can be quite dramatic.

So which is my favorite???? Well I like them all. As noted, some work better for frying and some work better for marinating and grilling; so there really is no correct answer. When we have done taste tests between farmed whites and farmed tigers with our 15 salespeople the results are usually split right down the middle. Half of the people prefer the milder and softer white; while the other half enjoy the brighter color, crunch and brininess of the tiger.

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Fresh Swordfish

High quality Fresh Swordfish is currently at historically low prices. There is also no better time of the year to find the highest quality and freshest-to-market, swordfish around. This premium fish is harvested off the coast of Halifax, Nova Scotia in an area known as the Emerald Basin. The cold, clean, waters of the Emerald Basin are home to some of the largest, fattiest, best tasting swordfish found anywhere in the world.

Harvested by long line Canadian fishing vessels, these large Atlantic Ocean swordfish are prized for their freshness, firm meat and taste. The cold waters of Eastern Canada makes these fish very fat which gives the meat a lot of flavor.  This is very similar to what marbling does for the flavor of beef. The more fat, the more flavor!

These fish are not available year round. They have been available since August, but fishing boats have almost caught their quotas and the weather is starting to get nasty. This means that if you don’t buy these within the next few weeks, you will have to wait until next summer to have the chance to enjoy them again. Don’t miss out! If you are a lover of swordfish, now is the time to experience the best eating swordfish ever.  Just make sure that what you are buying is Emerald Basin, Canadian, Long Line Swordfish. You will not be sorry!

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Imported Loligo Squid

There are several significant Loligo squid species imported into the US.  The two most significant are: Loligo chinensis (from China) and Loligo vulgaris (from India).  The one that offers the most value to the US consumer and is packed similar to US domestic squid is the Loligo chinensis squid from China.

Loligo chinensis is caught in the South China Sea and is typically brought to shore fresh.  There are Taiwan boats that freeze at sea, but the majority of the squid caught in the South China Sea is processed from fresh or first land frozen and then processed later.  Loligo chinensis is treated with a tenderizing agent during the cleaning process.  Very few US Squid importers list the tenderizing agent as an ingredient on their cleaned squid package.  BOSN calamari is one Chinese squid brand that has all the proper ingredients listed and is true net weight.

Loligo Chinensisafter processing is white, tender and neutral in flavor.  The US market prefers a tender squid with neutral flavor and this product meets those criteria. It is also packed in the recognizable format of tray and bag and is very competitively priced.   The squid is fully cleaned and tentacles are separated from tubes. The squid is sized by its tube length which mirrors the domestic loligo.

Loligo vulgarisis a loligo squid that comes to the US market primarily from India.  It is whole cleaned which means the tentacles are still connected to the tubes, but the tubes have been skinned and eviscerated.  The pack is typically in a block, not in a tray and bag, like the US or Chinese cleaned squid.  It is block frozen and wrapped in plastic.  Sizing is also typically tube count per kilo, not length of squid tube.

Loligo vulgaris is a very sought after specie around the world.  It is meaty, moderately tender; light colored and has a more pronounced flavor than the Loligo chinensis.  It is also chemically tenderized and the tenderizing ingredients are not usually declared on the package.

Regarding price, Chinese and Indian squid are similarly priced in the market.  The familiarity of the Chinese package versus the more obscure ct/ kg of the Indian squid and unruly block/bag means the Indian calamari is less likely to be found in retail.  Both Indian and Chinese squid packers are known to pack less than net weight, so once again it is critical to understand what one is purchasing.

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Selling the Seafood Sizzle

One of the biggest problems that most consumers have with seafood is that they simply do not know how to cook it.  This problem can be solved with a little education which will, when done effectively, create a loyal, committed customer.  The question is how to educate. In today’s fast paced society, the consumer is typically looking to reduce their time shopping.  Although they may say they are looking for an experience, in most cases, they target on developing a solution to their need for a meal and want to be in and out of the store as fast as possible.  Getting your customer engaged will be the key to making them a customer. 

The passive route to take is to develop recipe cards and to make them available to customers both at the counter and via your web site.  The benefit of this approach is the low cost - on the flip side - it will do little to engage your customer and get them excited about seafood.  The more proactive means of engagement would entail product demonstrations on site to show the customer the possibilities for creating a meal.  The upside of this approach is that your customer will see, smell, and taste the product - the downside is that it is expensive and results in limited customer exposure. 

I would recommend a hybrid approach - shoot a short video - no more than one minute - showing customers how to cook a particular meal.  In order to fully engage your store associates in the promotion, have them submit the recipes and do the cooking.  Combine this with a menu planning card as a take away and you have fully engaged your customer and made a sale in the process.

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Is it “Mahi” or “Mahi-Mahi?”

I am often asked how to tell a male Mahi from a female and here is the answer:  females have rounded heads and males have prominent, protruding foreheads that are square-like shaped.  Mahi is starting to hit its peak, import season now, and should be readily available and attractive priced from October thru February.  Try it….you will not be disappointed!  

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Warm Water lobster tails from the Pacific Ocean - Central American fishery

The Panulirus Gracilis lobster specie is found off of the Pacific coast of Central America. It is a small lobster; 90% of the lobster tails produced are in the 3-5oz range. These warm water lobsters have a spiny bright green shell and are caught by artisanal divers using surface supplied air or breath holding. Their fishing boats are either a small skiff or a canoe.  When the water is clear, a diver can find 10-30 lobsters in one day.   

The main sources of production are Panama and Nicaragua. I am familiar with the fishery in Nicaragua and it is sustainable and well managed. I believe this hand-caught fishing method is a big reason for the health of the fishery. The lobster tail freezing facilities are located in Managua, Nicaragua, which is a city located on the Pacific coast. The lobster tails arrive to the processing plants fresh throughout the day. They are immediately processed and are once frozen. I mention this because some fisheries freeze their lobster tails at sea, thaw them out at the processing plant for cleaning etc., then, refreeze them (twice frozen).

Central American production is relatively small compared to the Caribbean. Most of the shipments are flown by air to the USA, not sent by ship container; therefore, production figures are hard to track.

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Loligo Squid

Loligo Squid is a calamari specie that is prized around the world for its flavor and consistency.  There are many different types of loligo that come from different countries.  Known as long fin squid, this specie has a transparent (plastic-like) quill for its backbone.  The US has two commercial harvested species of loligo calamari:  Loligo pealei and Loligo opalescens. 

Loligo pealei, also known as Boston squid, is commercially harvested on the East Coast from New Jersey to Maine. Prized as one of the most flavorful and naturally tender of the loliginidae, it commands a premium in the whole and cleaned calamari marketplace.  Product used to be harvested and cleaned in the USA.  Now, product is harvested in the USA, land or sea frozen, and oftentimes sent to China for processing.  Whole frozen Loligo pealei is exported to Europe or Asia.

Loligo Opalesens is known in the marketplace as California Calamari.  This specie of loligo is smaller than the pealei and although quite flavorful, it is considered tougher or chewier.  There is big retail (supermarket) demand for whole frozen of this specie packed in 3lb. window boxes.  Once again if there is good catching, product is harvested in the USA, land or sea frozen, and oftentimes sent to China for cleaning.  An El Niño or La Niña in the Pacific impacts catching quite dramatically.

Boston squid (pealei) is the most expensive of all the cleaned calamari in the US market.  It is not as abundant in the market as the imported loligo species (vulgaris, chinensis) but it is the premium standard for taste and tenderness.  The cleaned forms for these loligo species include:  Tubes and Tentacles, Tubes Only, Rings Only and Rings & Tentacles.  The size references the tube length of the cleaned squid body, 5/8 means each tube length is approximately 5-8 inches long.  8/12 means each tube length is approximately 8-12 inches long and so forth.  The tentacles are typically packed in the natural proportion that occurs….about 35%.

In my next blog I will review the imported species of Loligo squid and discuss how they compare to the domestic Loligo pealei.

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