What’s In a Name? The True Langoustine (aka Scampi)

By Robert Landy

What is Scampi? There’s shrimp scampi, which is shrimp cooked in garlic butter, but that’s not scampi. Scampi is a type of lobster and is one of the world’s finest delicacies. There are, however, other species frequently referred to as scampi. For example, in the Midwest region of the US freshwater shrimp (Macrobrachium Rosenbergii) are referred to as scampi. So again, what exactly is scampi?

Is scampi a crawfish? Is scampi a crayfish? No, scampi are small clawed lobsters that unfortunately look a little bit like a crawfish. But they definitely shouldn’t be confused with the freshwater crawfish, which is primarily from the Gulf of Mexico and China. Crayfish is another name used for spiny lobster, and if that’s not confusing enough, in the southern US crawfish is called crayfish!

Tray of Crawfish

Is scampi a langostino? No, the Spanish word for shrimp is langostino, so we know it’s not that! A langostino is a squat lobster caught in Chile (Cervimunida Johni) and on the Pacific coast of Central America (Pleuroncodes Planipes).  These are very small lobsters that are sold mainly as cooked IQF meat.

Langostino Meat

So what are we talking about here? To start with, the French name for scampi is Langoustine, and so a scampi lobster is the true Langoustine.  It’s commercially caught in the North East Atlantic and in the North Sea. The Latin name for this species is Nephrops Norvegicus. There are also commercial quantities caught off of New Zealand and the Latin name for this subspecies is Metanephrops Challengeri. There are small quantities of scampi caught elsewhere, but the numbers are so few these are usually consumed locally. Most of the true Langoustines are sold head on, however Iceland and Ireland mainly process headless tails.

Tray of Scampi (Nephrops Norvegicus)

What do we call these buggers? These little lobsters are commonly called Scampi, Danish Scampi, Norway Lobster, Dainty Tails, Lobster Dainty, Dublin Bay Prawns, or, for you French buffs, Langoustines. Regardless of what you call them, they are truly one of the finest eating specialties from the ocean. Scampi have an amazing delicately sweet flavor and are served in the fanciest of restaurants.

New Zealand Scampi (Metanephrops Challengeri)

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Working Together to Drive Consumption

16.5 Pounds per capita represents all the seafood consumed in the US. Seafood falls above turkey (13.4) but below pork (47.8), chicken (59.2), and beef (62.9). I have been working in this industry for 26 years and in that time we have only been able to increase consumption by 3.2 pounds. During that same time frame, Chicken has increased by 30 pounds. Why the disparity?

Have we not spent the past quarter century working collectively to increase the consumption of seafood? To be honest, we have not. Yes there has been work done to increase consumer awareness about the benefits of eating seafood, to educate them on just how easy the products are to prepare, to develop consumer confidence. But most, if not all, of this work has been done by individual operators/stakeholders and at times the point of the education/awareness has been to promote one source of product at the expense of another. This latter kind of awareness building ultimately benefits neither party. For as the barbs fly back and forth, promoting one source over another creates confusion in the customers mind regarding which product is indeed better. The last thing we need in this industry is a customer who is not completely clear on why they should be eating seafood.

It really is time for us to find a way to come together as an industry and promote Seafood, in all its various forms. This requires both the industry to come together and coalesce around a marketing campaign that supports the various members of the seafood community in the US market as well as the development of a funding mechanism that provides the resources needed to fully support this effort. In conjunction with this idea, we need to redefine how government monies are used to support the industry. The expenses that are currently devoted to promoting one sub segment of the industry would be better served promoting the entire industry.

Let’s start the campaign with an internal goal of 20 pounds in 2020. Working together we could get there - working apart there is little chance of that lofty goal becoming reality.

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Shrimp Expert

by Emily Stavis

A Seafood Expert by definition is a person who has a special skill or knowledge in some particular field. While I don’t think of myself as an “expert,” I do get to participate in, and learn about, the various Shrimp markets all over the world.  Many buyers in the seafood business do not monitor, purchase, or get involved in many different Shrimp markets. They may be a supplier in the Gulf who is selling only Domestic Brown and White Shrimp in various forms, or they may be a Shrimp producer in Bangladesh specifically concentrating on the farming, marketing, and supply situation of Tigers and Freshwater Shrimp.  They are typically not involved with the other species that they do not handle.

I have a distinct advantage from where I sit, and that is because my company carries a wide range of different Shrimp items. Each day, I get to compare and contrast the Wild and Farmed markets, the White Shrimp and Tiger Shrimp Markets, the Shell-On Shrimp markets and the value-added Shrimp items like P&D T-On (peeled and deveined Tail-On Shrimp) and P&D Tail-Off (peeled and deveined tail-off Shrimp).

Prices on any given size of Shrimps can vary by as much as $1.00 - $2.00 per lb depending upon markets and the forms of Shrimp. For example today a 16-20 Domestic Shell-On Shrimp is selling in the low to mid $5.00/lb range at a wholesale level while PDT-On Shrimp of the same size are selling at a low $6.00 level wholesale.  One is a Wild Domestic Shrimp that needs labor to peel and devein it at the end user level and one is Farmed Tiger that is ready to cook with little to no labor to get the Shrimp ready for the pan.

The markets are constantly changing as seasons begin and end, supply situations go up and down, and the currency exchange fluctuates on the world markets.  Then there are the natural disaster and weather occurrences that can affect the markets as well. Many factors play into making decisions about the what and the when to carry product and this is what makes my job exciting, nerve wracking and just plain fun from day to day, season to season and from year to year.

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Cephalopods & Lent

By Ruth Levy

Lent is just around the corner and a great category to feature is Cephalopods:  Squid, Octopus and Cuttlefish.  These seafood items are consumed across many different cultures and certainly represent an opportunity for both the buyer and the seller.  In their frozen cleaned form, squid, octopus and cuttlefish are truly one of the best values in the seafood category as there is no waste, everything can be cooked.

How and where are these items used?  Squid or calamari is used in just about every type of restaurant whether it is fried, added to a seafood stew or poached and used in salad.  Cuttlefish is typically found more in Asian and Mediterranean cuisines stewed, grilled or fried.  Octopus has come into its own and can be found on your local Mexican, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese & Australian Restaurant menu just to name a few.  The dishes can range from fried, sautéed, salad, barbecued to stewed.  The applications are quite limitless for this seafood category of cephalopods.

The value for cephalopods lies not only in the versatile applications but also in the low cost of the product.  Cleaned squid, octopus and cuttlefish are all 100% usable and cost a reasonable amount compared to other proteins.  This is one category where the three mantras of value, versatility and variety all apply.

So, when thinking about what to eat or to feature during Lent, don’t forget Cephalopods:  Squid, Octopus and Cuttlefish.  There are close to seven weeks to focus on seafood and cephalopods should be on the top of the list.

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What does this mean for our industry? Well, first and foremost, it hurts an already financially strapped domestic fishing industry that counts on revenues generated from this desired seafood item. Seafood importers will now look more intensely at Grouper supplies from both South and Central America. This will be passed on to wholesalers, retailers, restaurants, etc. in the form of much higher than normal prices to the end users, who just want to enjoy a nice piece of Grouper fillet every once in awhile.

In the past, high Grouper prices have led to many other firm, flaky, white meat species being passed off as Grouper fillets to restaurants, retailers, fish markets, and eventually, the consumer. The USDC has for the last few years cracked down on the mislabeling of these “Grouper-like” species and many unscrupulous practitioners have been caught, fined, and had their dealer licenses revoked. Major broad line, retail and warehouse club chains have also either removed Grouper from their seafood offerings or asked for proof of the Grouper’s authenticity. This helps every seafood purveyor that does things “by the book” and it allows the consumer to enjoy real Grouper, not a cheaper tasting and inferior quality substitute.

Traditionally, high Grouper prices have also helped to create legitimate markets and subsequent demand for other firm, flaky fillets that can stand on their own merit. Items such as Swai, Ponga, Corvina, and Kingclip are being imported and offered now with more frequency. They have also become widely accepted by many seafood purveyors and their customers are asking for it by name. Having alternatives when traditional species are not available creates value and opportunity in our industry. The next time that Grouper is not available, try one of these new items. You will find that you and your customers will come back for more.

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Cephalopods are in big demand during the Christmas season.  The three major types that are purchased and consumed are:  Pulpo/Octopus, Sepia/Cuttlefish & Calamari/Squid.

Many people do not understand the difference between these three and tend to lump them all together.  However each type is a distinct animal.  Cooking methods can be quite similar but there are distinctive characteristics to each.

Pulpo or Octopus: 

Sold as large cleaned (each individual octopus weighs one to several pounds) or baby cleaned (several octopi per one pound).  These are typically boiled for salad or stewed in tomato sauce and transcend several cuisines:  South American, Mediterranean and Asian etc.  The cooked meat is chewy but flavorful. The tentacles are quite long and are cut into pieces while the head meat is sliced.

Sepia or Cuttlefish: 

This cephalopod is not as well known in the USA as its cousins the squid or octopus.  However, in Europe and Asia, this is the prized cephalopod for flavor and consistency.  The animal is a cross between both the squid and octopus in appearance.  The thick meat cooks up snow white and is tender with a subtle flavor.  It is delicious when grilled or stewed but is just as tasty fried or boiled. The tentacles are shorter and the body (or tube) is where the thick slices come from.  Once again the forms sold in the marketplace are either:   large cleaned, large uncleaned or baby cleaned.

Calamari or Squid:    

Most everyone knows this cephalopod.  The tube and tentacles are fried or the tube is stuffed.  Product is sized by tube length and there are many tubes or tubes & tentacles per pound. 

Happy Holidays!  May cephalopods be included on your holiday menu!

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2010 Predictions

As I contemplate the end of 2009 and the beginning of 2010 I am tasked with making predictions about what we can expect to see in the coming year.  Although 2009 was not as dire as many of us had thought it could be, I doubt there are many of us who will be sad to see the year pass and look forward to the opportunities that the future always holds in abundance.   

So what do I predict will happen in 2010?

• Although the economy will show “signs” of recovery in 2009, they will be only visible to those individuals working on Wall Street. Job creation will continue to be a challenge throughout 2010, as most companies continue to keep it lean and mean. Consequently, the average consumer will continue to increase savings and work towards trimming their budgets wherever they can. The increased savings rate will continue to impact the economic recovery, negatively in terms of year on year comparisons of the GDP - positively in that banks will be aggressive in developing lending relationships with solid companies in order to maximize the increased capital that will be at their disposal.
• Restaurants will continue to struggle with lackluster demand. Some of the high end chains will be forced to close a number of their poorer performing units in order to focus their resources on preserving their best units. The theme dining and mid-level chains will continue to promote value pricing in an effort to keep customer count, if not sales dollars, coming through the door. Profit margins will remain constant with 2009 as most of the chains have extracted most or all of the savings that they can from operations and administration already.
• Retail will continue to see increases ranging from 2-5%. The primary message will continue to be value for the dollar. Although most other proteins are anticipating a drop in production in 2010, which would normally result in increased prices, they will be hard pressed to pass along increases as they will not want to lose their competitive position relative to other proteins.
• Distribution will continue to see the consolidation primarily through attrition as smaller, weaker players are forced to sell or simply cease to operate.

2010 offers a variety of opportunities for seafood in that many of the core products that we sell are at historical lows - making seafood a true value, both in absolute and relative terms to other proteins.  Promoting that value will be the key to success in 2010.

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Oman Lobster Tails

by Robert Landy

In the USA, what we commonly refer to as Oman Lobster Tails are actually processed in the United Arab Emirates ( U.A.E. ).

These lobsters are caught in FAO area # 51 - Arabian Sea. The countries that are in this fishing area are Oman, Yemen, Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar, India, etc .

Species & Catching method

The primary lobster Species caught is the Panulirus Homarus. It is a small lobster; average body length is 20-25cm.  The majority of the lobster tails fall within the 2oz to 5oz sizes.

The lobsters are caught by netting, diving and/or traps depending on the country/region.  In Oman & Somalia they are caught by nets and diving.  In Yemen they also use traps. In India it’s mostly diving with some use of traps and nets in Mumbai.

Processing

The processing plants receive primarily frozen whole lobster or tails. They defrost the lobster, then clean and separate the lobster tails by quality. The lobster tails are then dipped into a Meta- Bisulphate solution.  They limit the amount of this chemical on the finished product to 100 parts per million. The lobster tails are then individually wrapped, then frozen in a blast freezer on metal trays. After frozen, they are graded by size + - 1/2oz tolerance. For instance, a 5oz tail will be 4.5oz to 5.5oz.  They are then packed in 10lb boxes, 4 boxes per master case.

Seasonality

The lobster season is divided into 2 parts:

The first season usually starts in September and ends in December. The second season resumes in Mid Feb and ends in May. During the first season, sizes are mainly in the 3-7oz range and during the second season, the sizes are predominantly in the 1-3oz range.

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Sustainability

Bringing the sustainable issue home to the everyday consumer is something that we have yet to do.  I wonder what the result would be if we each went home and asked our spouse, children and friends what MSC meant; how many would come back with the correct answer?  If your results are anywhere near the results that I have seen over the past few days, it’s pretty dismal.  Out of 8 people I asked - only one had the correct answer.  This is from a group of individuals that you would think by sheer proximity to the issue would have known the answer through osmosis.  If this small group from the seafood industry does not know what MSC represents and tries to create in terms of sustainability -  how can we expect the consumer at large to know the answer? 

 The seafood industry needs to address the issue of sustainability with the consumer quickly and directly.  It needs to speak to the myriad of news articles that lead the American consumer to believe that, as an industry, we have disregarded our responsibilities as stewards of the environment.  MSC needs to make itself relevant to the end consumer.  Once the MSC reaches the end consumer, it will make itself more relevant to the industry as a whole and not just the supplier community. This means that more time and energy needs to be spent developing a dialogue with the end consumer.  This can be done through well place print ads highlighting the fisheries that are certified sustainable by MSC along with a targeted Public Relations campaign.  The MSC and seafood industry can raise consumer awareness and in the process, increase consumption of seafood.

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What’s in a name? Grouper

by Richard Stavis

One of the biggest strengths of Seafood is also its biggest weakness- the incredible variety of species available.  A well recognized Seafood “name” is very valuable.  It has the power to drive consumption and to maximize its value.  In days past fishmongers would give these fish the name of the fish that they most closely resembled OR the name of a similar fish that had a high market value.  Thankfully this practice is behind us for the most part, but there remains a patchwork quilt of products that resemble “famous name” fish as well as some fish that are able to claim those names even though they may not taste or look as you might expect them to.  Our goal with this recurring column is to help consumers make informed choices, as well as, to make lesser known species more accessible.

The FDA defines Grouper as a number of subspecies in the Epinephelus genus of fish.  It has a mild white fillet that is moist, dense, and a bit chewy.  It’s a high value fish and it’s highly prized, especially in the southeast.  Demand for it outstrips supply.  It’s also the poster child for name fraud, and it’s rare in that the fraud still goes on to this day.   Sometimes the importer is in on the scheme, sometimes it is being scammed from the processor.  As this issue has come to the forefront most responsible importers (Stavis Seafoods included) have started DNA testing all incoming shipments of frozen Grouper to ensure that what they are selling is truly Grouper.  This is less practical on fresh fish as it is often harvested and sold in smaller quantities.

What are some of the more common Grouper imposters?  Historically exporters from Indonesia and Thailand have sold Sweetlip, Emperor fish, and Bonefish as Grouper.   Swai/Basa/Pangassius (a future “What’s in a Name” subject) from Viet Nam took the U.S. by storm in the early 2000’s.  One importer was convicted this past May of selling more than 1 million pounds of the fish as grouper, and that was just the tip of the iceberg.

A myriad of fresh fish have also been passed off as Grouper.  Some of the wild species used have included Tripletail, Corvina, KingClip, Snook, and Snapper.   We’ve also seen some farmed fish including Tilapia and Catfish being passed off as Grouper.

It is possible to ensure that what you’re selling can be or what you’re buying is legally Grouper, but is this the whole story?  What comes to mind when you hear the name “Reef Cod”?  Guess what- it’s a Grouper!  This fish has now become very popular because of its name cachet, but is it the best option if you want to replicate the experience of Atlantic Grouper?  Probably not- I’d go for Corvina! I ask again, what’s in a name?

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